Cumbria 13 August to 19th August

Saturday 13th August

Woke to glorious unexpected sunshine this morning.  Into our usual packing up routine, but nice not to have to be cleaning showers and vacuuming before leaving for a change.
Once we were packed up, we drove down to the little harbour at Kirkcaldy, then took a walk along the Fife Coastal path.  Lots of amazing colours in the stoney beach. Walked until the grey clouds that had been threatening rain decided that it was time to let loose, so we went back through the tunnel under the cliff and to the car.

Set off on the drive to Cumbria, stopping at an Asda for sandwiches then continuing on to Carlisle where we stock up on food for a couple of days.  About 15 minutes on to Skelton and we land at Pottery Cottage, our home for the next 10 days exploring the delights of the lake district and North Yorkshire.

Sunday 14th August

Spent the morning doing a bit of a catch up on the school work that we have missed this week, then after a lunch of sausage rolls, pita breads and hummos, we drove to the local Brougham (pronounced Broom) Castle for a look around and a walk.

River Eamont

Afterwards we drove across the Asomething to take a walk across the fields to St Ninian's church one of the oldest Christian churches in Cumbria.

Monday 15th

Sun was shining in a glorious blue sky this morning, so we are out the door as soon as possible to make the most of the rare sunshine.  

We head to Aira Force which is a waterfall on the edge of Ullswater and one of the few havens for red squirrels. On  the way we pass this beauty, http://www.therowleyestates.com/halls/blencowe-hall/

Driving down towards Ullswater we get our first spectacular views of the Lake District proper. Amazing scenery around the lake.

An easy walk up to the top where Holly enjoys a paddle and a drink of fresh water off the peak. Despite keeping our eyes peeled we do not spot any squirrels.

A Holly hole and an Aidan perch

Once we return back down, we stop at the cafe for a treat of scones and clotted cream in the National Trust cafe where the pictures are the only squirrels we see today.

We take the lake walk to Glenridding, which takes us through fields, along the lake side where the steamer is plying back and forth. Plenty of people out on the lake and the shore enjoying the sunshine.  We stop for a paddle but the water is freezing  

Arriving at Glenridding, we discover the damage done by the storm in December last year.  A section of the road was lifted and washed away at a 40 degree angle and is still awaiting repair,

Tuesday 16^th August

The forecast calls for today being the best weather of the week, sunny and 22° so we are off to Derwent water to make the most of it.

First we go via the Castlerigg stone circle, dating from about 2000 BC. Made of volcanic rock there are 38 stones in the circle with a smaller circle of 10 inside.

The temperature is still pretty brisk up on the fell and the site is quite busy which detracts from the atmosphere.

Leaving here we drive down the short distance to Keswick and find a park on the street.

The weather is indeed proving to be quite pleasant so we wander through the very attractive and busy town and find out way to the shores of Derwent Water.  Looking for Friar’s Crag which is reputed to the Peak of Darian (from Swallows & Amazons) we arrive in a small bay but mistakenly turn right rather than left. 

After exploring the bottom end of the lake, we go back into the town and get the snacks and swimmers from the car and buy some sandwiches then following the directions from the tourist office we head along the lake shore to the peak. Find a nice bench to enjoy our lunch, then sit out on the end of the peak while the kids brave the freezing water for a swim and then spend a couple of hours puddling around on the shore under the crag.

Finally drag them away and drive a few miles to packhorse bridge and walk up a little further to surprise view

Wednesday 17^th August

Yet another sunny morning but we are without internet, so can’t check the forecast to see how likely that is to remain.

Driving this morning to Coniston to see the big ticket item on our Swallows & Amazons tour – Wild Cat Island, which is suggested to be modelled on Peel Island in Coniston Water.

Along the way we pass by Grassmere, so pull in to have a peak at Wordsworth grave as well as sample the Grassmere gingerbread.  The queue outside the shop is rather alarming but it turns out that this is mainly because only 3 or 4 people can fit in the shop at a time.  While Aaron queues, the kids and I wander around the church yard. It is not hard to find the graves of Wordworth’s family as there is a hoard of tourists, largely Japanese circling around them in quite an orderly fashion. It does not take long for them to all file past and then they move on, presumably back to their tour bus.

Walking back to the shop the smell drifting out of the kitchen is beyond tempting.  Pretty sure the shop has been designed to spread the gingery aroma as far as possible across Grassmere. By the time we get back the queue has advanced and it is only a short while before we are in the shop. The very efficient ladies quickly sell us our large pack and we are outside again in mere moments. 

We take our bag of deliciousness and walk back to the little green area. Aaron gets a test coffee from the takeaway nearby and we sample the amazing gingerbread, and after sample the coffee I go back for one for myself.  A quick wander around what is left of Grassmere and a pause at the café offering free internet to check for an email Aaron is waiting for, then we are on our way again.

Not too much further on to Coniston and after a quick stop at the top we drive down the ridiculously narrow road with frequent stops and reverses for passing, as well as being stuck behind a mobile home which had dropped its spare tyre until we can see Peel Island off in the lake.

 Luckily find a spot with room to pull over and a gate to go through and we make our way down a muddy path to the shore of the lake and Wild Cat Island just across the way.  After gazing at it for a while, the kids are determined for a swim, so I collect their swimmers and the bag of snacks and they brave the icy water for a dip.  By now a few other people have joined us in our little cove with picnics, bbq’s and blow up canoes.  

The kids give up on swimming and come out positively blue.  After a bit more of an explore and some quiet contemplation of the lake we get back to the car and drive back up the lake road to Tarn Hows.

National Trust parking (that membership is very useful – well worth it for the parking alone) and take a pleasant walk around the tarn for an hour.

Back home via the very busy town of Ambleside and a stop at the supermarket in Penrith.

Thursday 18^th

Big day planned today ticking off 3 items off our list.  Started out early as we are driving back into the Dales to visit the White Scar Caves.  As we are in good time and still without wifi at home we stop off at a service centre to pick up emails and download some maps and other essentials.  Arrive at the caves by 11, having just missed a tour, but only ½ hour to the next one so by the time we have sorted ourselves out with jackets etc and browsed the gift shop the time is gone. 

Get our helmets and the group of about 20 sets off for the mile long walk into the cave. 

Very cold and dark but the caves are well enough lit in places to make your way easily along the paths.  First up is a big underground waterfall, then we follow the underground stream and our guide tells us about the discovery of the caves and the exploration that has taken place, as well as about the formation of the rocks, stalagtites, mites, straws etc.  Close to the final huge chamber, the lights are switched off so we can see how the stalagtites fluoresce.  Quite low in places and there is a lot of ape walking to get through. Clearly pays to get there early as there are lots of big groups following us in.

Back out of the cave and into the sunshine (and relative warmth) we set off to destination 2, Wensleydale Creamery which is conveniently 20 minutes down the road in Hawes. We head straight to the tasting room and eat our way around the counter. We agree that the Kit Calvert is still the best, closely followed for Aidan & by the Wensleydale Blue and the sheep milk cheese. 

The fruity flavours get a thumbs down from everyone, though most would be nice for variety on a cheese board.  Make our selectons and then eat a little more cheese just to be sure, then we wander across the field into Hawes for a non-cheese snack.. End up at one of the pubs for a couple of bowls of chips.

Final stop on the list is the Ribblehead Viaduct which is back towards the caves again.  Feeling quite amazed that the sun is still shining. Aaron has to stop and speak to an elderly couple who have stopped in their car to get an icecream from the roadside tea van, but have neglected to actually pull off the road, so are blocking the lane on a bend.  Popular spot for walkers, we walk underneath and then up the slope for a higher view. 

Long drive home, though no problems on the motorway so we make it in good time and I have time for a walk down the lane to Unthank after dinner.

Friday 19th

Raining. Kids caught up on lessons. I did a grocery shop in Penrith, 

10 - 12 August, Edinburgh

Wednesday 10th August

love shops like this

Pleasant night in the Premier Inn. Finishing the drive to Kirkcaldy today, so we start off at the local Wetherspoons for their excellent eggs benedict, and then we are on our way.

  All goes well until we are on the A1 just past Alnwick, when an accident causes us to be diverted. The next hour is spent following the diversion signs around in the a circle, which we realise as we pass the Chathill railway station for the second time.  Other motorists are similarly confused.  Giving up trying to follow the signs and unable to follow the sat nav as she just wants to take us back to the A1, which the radio keeps informing us is well blocked, so we head towards Seahouses. Unfortunately holiday traffic is appalling and the trip is long and slow before we pass the astounding Bamburg Castle and we finally resurface on the A1.  Detour briefly to check out Holy Island but it is starting to rain so we don't stop for a walk around.Continue on to Berwick upon Tweed, where we stop for some sandwiches and a leg stretch on the city ramparts.
Then it is back to the horrors of the journey to Edinburgh. After an all too brief good run, the traffic grinds to a halt again as we take the Edinburgh bypass and traffic is (according to the radio) heavier than normal over the Forth Bridge, so it is about 7pm when we finally arrive at our Airbnb.  Thankfully Joe is there to meet us as promised and he gives us a quick run down - yay, someone to explain how to work the shower - be sure to turn on the switch outside the bathroom door before expecting any hot water, before leaving us to it.  I make a quick run down to the Asda at the end of the road for some ready meals and we are set for the night.  Now to hope the weather clears a bit for the Tattoo tomorrow night.

Thursday 11th August

Very comfortable night in our apartment in Kirkcaldy. The morning is a bit damp but clears as the morning goes on.
First on the agenda is a trip to see the Falkirk wheel.  A whole different type of lock.
It is about a 45 minute drive so we set off mid morning.

A very impressive structure and they have gone out of their way to make an attraction of it, with an excellent play area featuring various ways of moving water for the kids.  The tourist boat goes through every half hour or so which is good as it would be a shame not to see it in operation.
Afterwards we drove out for a brief look at the Kelpies.

As the weather was turning, we stop, but they are certainly massive structure.

Back home for a bite to eat and to don most of our winter clothing for the night ahead. We have picked up some plastic ponchos in case the promised rain eventuates, as I suspect the waterproofing of our coats may not survive a couple of hours soaking, not to mention legs and feet.

Just after 4pm we set off into Edinburgh, through the traffic and are very lucky to get a street park just where we want, so no need to fall back onto plan B. Bit of a hike around the castle rock to find the ticket shop but there is no queue to collect the tickets and everything goes smoothly. We now have a couple of hours to pass until the performance so we wander around the streets enjoying the busking performances as Edinburgh is in full flow of the fringe festival.  Grab a bite to eat at a pie shop then head up to the castle.

There has been some light rain during the evening but it is starting to clear and we are hopeful.
The queue up the Royal Mile is quick moving and after a perfunctory bag check we are onto the esplanade.  Somehow not as large as it looks on the tv, but the anticipation is high.  Plenty of performers coming in and out of the castle in search of coffees, so we snag a couple of photos.

Once we take out seats, it is not long before the compere comes on and warms up the crowd with lots of welcomes and even gets us to sing happy birthday to someone in the audience. Then the offical guest arrives and is escorted up the red carpet and bang on the dot of 9pm the show begins.

The weather holds off for us, though sitting still for a couple of hours gets a bit chilly at times.  Really glad we put on the thermals. Absolutely spectacular show.  Even Holly is enthralled enough to stay awake until the end.

The esplanade empties out very efficiently at the end and apart from nearly getting blown away down in the freezing wind as we walk from the castle we make it home shortly before midnight.

Friday 12 August

Everyone managed a bit of a sleep in after our late night. We wake to some sunshine but it soon blows away.  Stir ourselves to be on our way into Edinburgh via the Park and Ride and the tram which is about a 25 minute trip. Happen to sit next to a young woman playing pokemon, so I get a quick lesson as we tootle along.
As it is about 12.30 once we find our way through the streets, we go to the castle first up.  Huge queues to buy tickets but our EH membership gets us in the fast lane and we are straight up the hill and through the portcullis ready for the 1 o'clock canon firing. Unfortunately 1/2 the population of Edinburgh is already waiting, so we can't see from the back, but it certainly goes off with a bang. We then wait for the guided tour and spend the next couple of hours exploring the castle.

By now the rain is back, so we head back into the town in search of food. End up in TGI Fridays where we all chow down on burgers before dragging the kids on a walking tour of the rest of the city, including a hike up Carlton Hill where it appears Edinburgh has dumped all it's monuments and left them untended.