Monday 27th March to Tuesday 3rd April Barnard Castle

Monday 27th March

Left our lovely cottage in Thornton le Clay and drove into York for a bit of a shop as we needed to buy some towels to take to our next holiday let (!?!).  We end up having a quick fish and chip lunch in a busy pub and then set off on our drive further north towards Barnard Castle.  After a brief pause for dinner supplies, we drive the short distance to our village of Romaldkirk where we have some difficulty locating our cottage, before being directed by some friendly (kiwi) neighbours.

The cottage is a very traditional style, with separate dining room, and very plushly furnished.

Went for a walk out of the village,  over the beck and through the sheep fields filled with fresh lambs.

The highly attractive Teesdale village of Romaldkirk is situated 6 miles to the north west of the market town of Barnard Castle and lies in beautiful Teesdale within the historic boundaries of the North Riding of Yorkshire.

The village is thought to derive its name from St. Rumwald of Brackley, an obscure Anglo-Saxon saint who was born in King's Sutton, Northamptonshire, probably in 650 AD. St. Rumwald was said to be the maternal grandson of King Penda of Mercia, and the son of a Pagan prince of Northumbria. Rumwold's mother is described as a pious Christian who, when married to a pagan king, tells him that she will not consummate the marriage until he converts to Christianity, he does so, and she becomes pregnant. An eleventh century legend relates that the three-day-old prince pronounced the Christian Creed loudly immediately after his baptism!

Of ancient origin, the village is referred to in the Domesday Book of 1086 as ' Romoldscherce' where it is recorded as 'waste'. Upper Teesdale was laid waste by the Scots in 1070, when an 'infinite multitude' led by King Malcolm Canmore entered Cumberland and crossed the Pennines into Yorkshire, after laying waste the area, Canmore tnen marched north, loaded with loot, to Wearmouth.

Romaldkirk is one of the most attractive villages in County Durham. The Rose & Crown Inn (above left) dates back to the eighteenth century and stands on the green of the picture postcard village. The inn offers bed and breakfast accommodation and serves delicious food. A set of ancient stocks (above left) stands on the the village green outside the inn.

Most of the houses around the pretty village green were built during the 1700's. By the side of the road opposite to the church is a house, formerly an inn, with the inscription:-'If by you go And dry you be The fault's in you And not in me.'

Tuesday 28th March

The sun of the previous few days has deserted us today and a low mist lies everywhere which clears partially after lunch. We knock through some school work then Aaron drives to Barnard Castle for some shopping and the kids and I walk along the rail trail towards Mickleton and the viaduct.  The sun deserts us half way through and the mist returns, making it quite cold.

the stocks

the water pump

Wednesday 29th March


Bishop Auckland in the drizzle.


Thursday 30th March
morning walk then a visit to the Bowes Museum and a walk around Barnard Castle

Butter Market

At the head of the bank is a truly original sight and one of Barnard Castles iconic images, the octagonal 'Market Cross' a gift to the town from Thomas Breaks built in 1747.

Known affectionately in its alter ego as the 'Butter Mart' it suffers from the modern scourge of traffic as it now reluctantly accepts its role as roundabout.

Dividing the Market Place from the Bank is the Market Cross. This built by Thomas Breaks in 1747 to replace the old tollbooth which stood at the farther end of the Market Place. It is octagonal in shape, surmounted by a bell-turret terminating in a weather-vane.

Round the base is a series of Boric columns forming a veranda. This is now open to view no doubt to improve the view of modern day traffic but previously had been closed in by wooden shutters, prior to that the veranda had iron railings.

The veranda was the market for butter and dairy produce. Inside the heavy piers supporting the upper structure were enclosed to form a jail.

Stairs lend up to the hall where the town records were kept and administrative work performed. On the wall is a coloured armorial with the arms of the second Lord Barnard.

In the 18th century the lord of the manor gave the town a fire-engine which was used to deluge John Wesley while on a preaching visit to the town.

While the lower level is open to the public the upper level is now locked and used as a store room. It also still has a working fire bell last rung during the funeral of a local fireman.

Two holes in the vane were pierced by bullets fired in response to a challenge in 1804. by 'two local marksmen from the door of the Turk's Head, a range of 100 yards.

Bowes Museum

Friday 31 March


high force

rail trail viaduct over River Balder

When we returned home I  took advantage of the sunshine and went for a walk along the rail trail in the opposite direction to look at the viaduct over the River Balder

Saturday 1 April
Partly sunny start to Saturday so we drive to Durham.  Cheap parking and a short walk across the river to the town centre.  We do the river walk first while the sun is shining and then grant Holly's wish to take out a rowing boat.  All is well until 5 minutes from the end when the rain begins and we have to row like crazy back to the dock.
Rather damp and cold we walk up into the town centre and settle into the Pizza Express for some lunch and to warm up.

Afterwards, once the rain stops we have a good look around town, the cathedral and castle buildings then walk back around the river and to the car.  Catch an amazing rainbow on the way home.

Monday 2 April

Wetheriggs Animal Sanctuary and Richmond Castle

Tuesday 3 April

Did the circular walk from Barnard Castle to Egglestone Abbey. Had late lunch in Barnard Castle and the kids played with neighbour James in the evening.